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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Nov 21, 2022 11:38:01 GMT
I'd prolly go with the "like for like" replacement then.
You might be able to sell that shitty tank cover on to some poor mug and get some of the cost back...
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Post by mekon on Nov 21, 2022 11:47:17 GMT
Most places only offer the tank cover if you pay extra, so won't order it.
I'm going to remove the shredded stickers tonight if I've got time and see what the state of the panels is underneath. The other option is respray and sticker set or metallic blue wrap and stickers. The problem with that is there's are other bits and pieces I've now noticed like a scrape on the top fairing and a crack in the mudguard. Probably better to replace the lot and stick the originals in the loft so I can sell them with the bike if I ever get rid.
The headstock has been fine since I tightened it up so no need for bearings. I'll probably take first part of the yoke off just to respray it black as it's a bit worn in places. I was going to respray the fork lowers black but I did a photoshop on it and decided it looked shit. Silver it is. If I take the wheels off and powder coat then obviously they'll get new bearings. Don't think there's a need though. Seen one with fluorescent yellow wheels but I think it looked a bit off.
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Post by Eddie The Bastard on Nov 21, 2022 19:40:07 GMT
Top man cave too.
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Projects
Nov 21, 2022 22:26:46 GMT
via mobile
Post by mekon on Nov 21, 2022 22:26:46 GMT
That was a random pic of one. I have 10ft X 19ft garage. With washing machine, tumble dryer and freezer in. I can but dream of such space.
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Post by Eddie The Bastard on Nov 22, 2022 19:59:00 GMT
Oh I see.
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Projects
Nov 23, 2022 20:07:44 GMT
via mobile
Post by mekon on Nov 23, 2022 20:07:44 GMT
Bought some of those extraction tools to get out annoying bolts but they didn't work. I need the rearset positioning bolts out as the brake hits the exhaust but they are seized in and the Allen heads striped.
I drilled into them and knocked the tool in but even when they bite if the bolts are soft shit then then they strip when you start to wind the pressure up. I ended up drilling the heads off. Now I've got the plate they're on off and have left some penetrating oil to soak in before I try and mole grip the stumps out.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Nov 24, 2022 7:46:16 GMT
Get a drill chuck directly on the stumps if you can, works better than mole grips.
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Post by mekon on Nov 25, 2022 21:26:22 GMT
Well that went shit. Because they are an odd shape I couldn't get the plates to stay in the vice properly. I took them off the bike as I couldn't get a decent angle without potentially scraping stuff. I ended screwing them onto the work bench and with some plumbers grips, one of the stumps eventually unwound. Amazing how little corrosion seizes stuff. The bench was starting to move. The next one didn't go as well and snapped off, so drilling it was... Except I went in off centre and had to be careful not to fuck the original threads. I managed to get most of the bolt drilled out and went to 7mm,then with the edge of the stump that was left, took a drift and hammered the remaining metal off the threads. I cleaned it up with a tap but it seems ok.
I'm not touching the other side. No way. I only need to move it up on the brake side anyway for the MOT and then it can go back down. I'm pretty sure not being able to press your brake without it hitting the exhaust would be a failure anyway.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Dec 8, 2022 12:47:12 GMT
In a sudden, unexpected wave of inspiration, I decided to resume my CBR 150 project which I started (and almost finished) in Thailand. This is the last picture I took of it before taking it apart and putting the bits in boxes six and half years ago.  I couldn't bring the frame I used on the Thai version back to Europe, so a few years ago I bought a Spanish CBR 125 frame and log book and chucked ito storeage with all the other bits I brought from Thailand. The frame only needs one modification, the swing arm pivot on the single sider is 15mm but the CBR original is 12mm so I have to enlarge the pivot holes in the frame. When I did it on the Thai frame the challenge was trying to center the metal cutter drill bit. I packed the pivot holes with epoxy, let it set and then tried to drill using the epoxy plug to center the bit, but it wasn't a great success. Probably good enough considering the Thai Honda built pressed steel frame, but anyway, this time round I'm taking a different approach. My plan is to use conical bits to step up gradually from 12mm to 13, then to 14, then 15 for the first mm or two, then switch to the 15mm metal cutter to go all the way through. Anyway, step by step, don't want to over do things and get stressed, today I got the frame out of storage and onto my balcony workshop, much to wife's annoyance.  So that's the first photo of the new project, watch this space... |
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Post by mekon on Dec 8, 2022 19:05:07 GMT
Can't you just take it to some proper engineering place and get them to do it? That top picture looked cool, even though it was just a rolling chassis.
I've only got to taking the forks off and since I had a day off today I stripped them and the bushings need replacing but I guessed that with the metallic shit that was in the fork oil. Sanded fork legs down where there grotty and keyed the rest up. If I can get the garage up to a decent temperature I'll etch primer them later.
I also went for the 2000 livery fairing just to annoy GSXR fans.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Dec 8, 2022 22:38:22 GMT
I tried to get the pivot holes machined on the Thai frame, but nobody wanted to do it, frame was too big to get in most lathes and they wouldn't do it by hand. So I did it myself, and in the end I did it again to the Spanish frame today:  It went really well, surprisingly well in fact, but there you go, I got both sides done, swarf cleaned and a trial fitting of the swing arm went well (as it should because I had all the spacers made up in Thailand). In theory, there's no more engineering to be done, it's just bolt together from here in.   And yes, that is a takeaway paella box on the floor... What d'ya reckon I should do with the scores in the swing arm from a bent rearset in a previous life?  |
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Post by mekon on Dec 8, 2022 22:51:14 GMT
That's just cosmetic?
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Dec 8, 2022 22:55:12 GMT
Good question.
It's one hell of a chunk of metal, it weighs as much as the frame so I don't think its in danger of snapping in half, but they do go a bit deeper than I'd like.
I'm thinking that I'm going to have to get them welded up TBH.
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Post by mekon on Dec 12, 2022 21:15:25 GMT
Fuck me, just had one of those 30 min jobs that turns into a 150 min job. Went to put forks back together after new bushings and fork seals turned up. Put bottom slider bushing on, the one that goes over the stanchion, put the bushing and spacer and seal on stanchion. Stanchion into fork leg. Get seal driver. Bang away, nothing's moving. More banging, nothings moving. Have a look. Fucking 2nd bushing won't seat in the fork leg. It's got a split in like the one on the stanchion, so it too wide to sit in it's seat. I need to hold it together whilst also driving it down a bit to get into the fork leg. This proved to be some sort of test of looking for every piece of equipment in the garage and thinking of a way to hold this fucking thing together. I eventually found some plastic car trim release tools and rammed them into the space so it compressed the bushing together. THen I got one side of the seal driver in, did a couple of hits and managed to get it going into the fork leg. It then required lots and lots of forceful seal driving for it to actually go in properly. Cunting thing.
Just found a pic in the service manual of the 'special tool'. FUCK ME $383!!!!
Some people in a suzuki forum just use pieces of wood as wedges to tighten it up. I guess similar to me sticking pry tools in.
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Projects
Dec 13, 2022 16:23:36 GMT
via mobile
Post by mekon on Dec 13, 2022 16:23:36 GMT
Well the other fork went together a lot quicker using my patented ram plastic pry tools in the gap method. Being retarded I then decided to refill the forks....but Id forgotten to screw the adjuster in the fork leg back in and out came the oil. Retard.
Took the fork top off and took the spring 0ut to measure the air gap, did some rod pumping and put it back together then realised I'd left top collar in the box of bits. Retard.
The KTM took loads of extra time because it was rotted but I mechanic'd fairly competently. This time the bike is ok but I seem to keep doing stupid stuff. Oh well forks back together anyway.
I was going to split the brakes but tbh they work pretty damn well so no point. Just put new pads in.
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