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Post by mekon on Mar 2, 2021 18:13:48 GMT
Fuck me. Everything on this bike is seized. Need to take this cover off to see where TDC is but it's fucking seized to fuck. Takes an allen key fairly deep but the fucker isn't moving and will strip if I give it more. It's be sprayed with penetrating spray but that's almost pointless as it had a sealing ring underneath anyway. I've whacked it with punches and cold chisels to shock it and even tried to smack it round with the chisel but it won't budge. Here's the offending bastard. This is the nice alumium aftermarket one. Current one is rusty steel.   Worst comes to the worst I guess the alternator cover has come off or I try and get my mate with welder to come around and weld a large nut on? Here's a random pic of where it lies on the alternator cover.  |
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Post by spentcase on Mar 2, 2021 19:30:18 GMT
Meeks, just watch a few clips of Mamma Mir, have a protein shake to recover, then you should be able to generate more than enough wrist-torque to remove the bolt along with your own penetrating spray.
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Post by mekon on Mar 2, 2021 19:57:24 GMT
I fear even Droog's famous penetrant couldn't free this bad boy. If it was somewhere else I'd try heat on it but I'll fuck the paint on the casing.
Just done an experiment with some metal sheet, a nut and some epoxy. If it cures and I can generate some decent torque I'll try epoxying a 14mm nut on it. I just watched some video where some cunt got 50lbs feet out of some JB weld. That should be enough.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Mar 2, 2021 20:08:44 GMT
Had a similar problem on my GSXR, but the OEM cap is alloy. Bastard wouldn't turn.
Ennded up having to take the whole case off, destroy the cap to get it out and buy a new one and reassemble.
A fiver says you end up having to do the same.
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Post by pantah on Mar 2, 2021 20:27:33 GMT
Impact driver will shift it. You get allen key hex bits with them. Not expensive.
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Post by Droog on Mar 2, 2021 20:37:57 GMT
Don't heat it up as you will fuck the paint and most probably warp the casing. Order up a replacement cap and when it arrives, try welding a large nut to the fucked steel cap. Just tack it though, don't put too much heat into it. If that fails, take the casing off, drill a big hole through the cap and dremel it down the side (be careful of the threads) to remove the tension. Pain in the arse but you'd be surprised how easy it is to fuck modern casings. They are brittle as fuck.
EDIT
Remember to copper slip grease the new one.
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Post by mekon on Mar 2, 2021 20:53:30 GMT
I've a nice new one like those in the pics waiting. At least the worst, worst case scenario is only about £70 as I've found of couple of casing on Ebay for that price.
I hate this cunting bike. At least rear shock mounting came loose so I can that out as the spring needs powder coating. It's rusty and makes the bike look scruffy as fuck. I reckon once this is done it'll look spangly enough to sell if I want. I guess any bike is a cunt when bits won't move.
Will report back about now much strength some epoxy has though. Can't imagine it will be much.
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Post by Droog on Mar 2, 2021 21:00:08 GMT
If it's not budging with a cold chisel, I doubt the epoxy will do it. But you never know. I'd just weld a nut on it.
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Post by mekon on Mar 2, 2021 22:25:31 GMT
Mate bought a welder when he rebuilt his xt660 but is a bit of a Covid worrier so doubt he will let me borrow it. Haven't seen him for months now.
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Post by armstrongracer on Mar 3, 2021 1:09:48 GMT
Here's a bodge, sorry, engineering solution I've done before but you have to take cover off as it involves drilling.
Drill 2 small holes either side of the hex key, m3 or m2.5 might work. Put a long high tensile bolt through each hole from the back, lock each bolt down hard with a nut from the top so you have 2 rigid pins sticking out of the flat nut. Ive used an allen key in a long piece of tube to give leverage. hook allen key around the pins so the inside is against one pin and the out side is against the other. You can get quite a bit of leverage on the nut doing this especially if you space the pins as far apart as you can. As an alternative to the allen key you can use a large adjustable spanner closed down on the pins. Hold cases in a workmate or large vice using big blocks of wood to avoid damaging the cases. Hope that explains it ok.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Mar 3, 2021 10:47:30 GMT
Don't heat it up as you will fuck the paint and most probably warp the casing. Order up a replacement cap and when it arrives, try welding a large nut to the fucked steel cap. Just tack it though, don't put too much heat into it. If that fails, take the casing off, drill a big hole through the cap and dremel it down the side (be careful of the threads) to remove the tension. Pain in the arse but you'd be surprised how easy it is to fuck modern casings. They are brittle as fuck.
EDIT
Remember to copper slip grease the new one.
With mine, once the case was off, I drilled through the cap and put an M14 bolt through it, tightened a nut onto the cap, gripped the bolt in a vice and turned the casing by hand. |
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Post by mekon on Mar 3, 2021 13:40:27 GMT
Given up on standard methods now. The allen hole is still holding up but I feel it starting to go and I'm giving it enough to start pulling the bike backwards on the stand. It's certainly more force needed that any epoxy will hold.
May go with Droog's method of removing the case then slowly grinding away with a dremel until it falls out. All this for a £3 part.
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Post by mekon on Mar 5, 2021 17:31:28 GMT
Taken the alternator cover off. Annoyingly the gasket came apart in a million pieces to add to pain for cleaning the surface up. Disconnected the wiring and have the cover on the bench. Going to try and get penetrating oil to work from the inside overnight and my mate with his expensive impact driver is coming round tomorrow to give the fucker one last go before welding or grinding out solutions come into play.
When I put it back together would you go for make your own gasket or just buy the paper one from KTM?
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Post by Droog on Mar 5, 2021 18:32:03 GMT
I'd just buy one. Even if it is a cheap pattern part. I've made plenty of gaskets over the years. It's actually an underrated skill to do it properly.
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Post by mekon on Mar 5, 2021 18:59:28 GMT
If I didn't but one (probably will as I need a few bits and pieces anyway from a dealer) would it better to apply to the engine side or the case side? If makes a difference? I did it myself when I smashed the zx6r casing but I can't remember what and why. It didn't leak though.
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