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Post by mekon on Apr 7, 2019 18:13:46 GMT
Never had a hydraulic clutch before but anyway....
Did my brakes with one of the vacuum units. Pump a lever to create a vacuum and open the valve and out comes fluid. Brakes are better now.
Went to do clutch, follow haynes instruction to pump the level a few times first with the top off to get any air out that end. Stick vacuum on valve, open it (very sticky), nothing, open it, nothing, open it.....starts bleeding from the thread so stop and tighten. Pressure in the vacuum unit hasn't gone down, nothing has been drawn through.
I think maybe I'm a thick cunt and do it again but this time I tie-wrap the lever to the bars first. Good seal, good vacuum, no fluid until I've turned it too far and it's coming out of the base through the threads. Close up again.
Have I got a bleed valve bloked with crud or something?
Can't test the bike with engine running at the moment as I've dumped the oil and coolant today. Arse.
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Post by neilf on Apr 8, 2019 8:01:48 GMT
My old VF500FIIE had a hydraulic clutch and it's the lightest one that I have ever used on any bike since.
Have you tried bleeding it without the vacuum unit?
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Post by mekon on Apr 8, 2019 10:14:18 GMT
Not yet. Going to finish off oil and coolant and then give the thing a run and see if the travel is any better than it was. The problem I was having was there was literally only mm before hitting the bar before the clutch would disengage. If if's even marginally improved I'll just leave it and stop fiddling. Maybe buy some one way bleed valves for future fiddling.
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Post by armstrongracer on Apr 8, 2019 11:37:51 GMT
I'm doing my KTM one right now (slightly different as its one of the Magura ones like on MTB's) and the Superduke forum recommends filling it from the bottom using a syringe & pipe to push fluid through bleed nipple and up to master cylinder. Not sure if that approach will work. Forum also recommends unbolting the slave cylinder so the piston extends fully. Also worth disconnecting master cylinder from the bars and positioning the master and slave cylinders in a straight vertical line so the bubbles can rise to the top easily.
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Post by Droog on Apr 8, 2019 11:54:15 GMT
I prefer the gunson method that pushes rather than draws. Amazing what cunts hydraulics can be though when it comes to trapped air.
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Post by mekon on Apr 8, 2019 14:21:20 GMT
I'm doing my KTM one right now (slightly different as its one of the Magura ones like on MTB's) and the Superduke forum recommends filling it from the bottom using a syringe & pipe to push fluid through bleed nipple and up to master cylinder. Not sure if that approach will work. Forum also recommends unbolting the slave cylinder so the piston extends fully. Also worth disconnecting master cylinder from the bars and positioning the master and slave cylinders in a straight vertical line so the bubbles can rise to the top easily. Yeah saw a video where some guy with a VFR pushes the fluid bottom to top with a syringe. |
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Apr 8, 2019 15:59:48 GMT
I've had a blocked nipple before, fucking painful!
But seriously that has happened to me. Take the nipple right out and see if you can blow through it. If it didn't have the rubber cap on it, it can easily get gunked up. You can usually unblock it by twisting a small drill bit between your fingers.
I have a Gunson kit, brilliant, but I never use it on the bike. I just use it on the car where it's impossible to reach the pedal and the caliper at the same time.
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Post by mekon on Apr 10, 2019 19:39:44 GMT
Fuck. Did coolant and oil. Got bike warmed up and some air bleed from the radiator, not a massive amount though.
Anyway, stuck the bastard into first from neutral and it's 'clunking' like fuck. People on honda forum don't seem to bothered by this and it's ok going into other gears. Just testing clutch engagement point with the back wheel up it seems to have got better, not engaging mm from letter letting the level off anyway. Need to ride it on the road really. Maybe it'll get better once the oil is flowing properly. Only ran it for a few minute.
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Post by Droog on Apr 11, 2019 1:27:28 GMT
Are the cush drives worn? Usually the issue when getting a big clunk on engaging first gear.
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Post by mekon on Apr 11, 2019 6:59:08 GMT
Not sure. It's only really the 1st gear I have a problem with the rest of the time it changes pretty smooth.
Having googled rc36 cush drive and only really found one place selling new at £12 a piece I hope I'm not going to have to replace them. I thought they be cheap as chips as they're only pieces of fucking rubber.
Going to make sure the headset has no place today and also check the front wheel spindle and then the bastard can get it's fairing back on and I'll see how clunky it is in the real world. If it's still clunky then maybe I'll have to pull the rear wheel off.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Apr 11, 2019 7:53:23 GMT
But did you actually manage to bleed the clutch?
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Post by mekon on Apr 11, 2019 9:48:35 GMT
No. Ain't nothing coming out of that bleed valve. Just starts coming out the threads if you loosen. My main problem with the clutch was it was on the point of grabbing when the lever was in. It's not as bad but fuck knows.
Someone at work suggested the chain may be too tight. Last time I looked it was certainly nowhere near loose but I never considered if it was too tight. Need to look at that as well.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Apr 11, 2019 10:33:32 GMT
You need to sort that out first and get some fresh fluid in there.
If you can't get the bleed nipple unblocked with a drill bit, surely it's worth spending a quid on a new one?
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Post by mekon on Apr 11, 2019 11:15:10 GMT
Just bought one of those speed bleeder valves. Should just be pump and go with that. If that doesn't work then must be some other bunged up shit in the system or something.
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Post by mekon on Apr 11, 2019 17:19:16 GMT
Fuck me the pain continues.
Thought I'd bleed the rear brake since it was also pretty shit and only worked when your really stuck your foot to floor. It quickly became obvious that the nipple had not been opened in very long time. After some gentle force I get it turning and stick the vacuum kit that worked well for fronts on. Also have my mate by the fluid reservoir ready to top up.
Anyway, get some vacuum on the gauge, open the nipple, lots of bubbles and liquid and my mate topping up. Old fluid out, new in, tighten up nipple, test my new brakes and......nothing. NOTHING AT ALL!!!!!! FERK!!! Make another vacuum, start getting shitty black bits into the bottom of my catch tank now. All that's coming into the tank is now air bubbles, no fluid, fluid isn't moving at all at the top end.
Had enough of vehicles now. Especially 22 year old ones that last had a bleed in fuck knows when. I'm assuming somehow I've let a load of air in. Oh well I guess that speed bleeder I just order will come in handy, especially as I've just discovered the clutch bleed valve is M10 and the brakes are M8 and I ordered a M8.
I'm now like the cunt next door that bought a Fazer 'to do up' but only seems to get revved a few times on Sunday morning for about a year now.
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