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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Jul 24, 2019 6:39:40 GMT
Is there a side stand switch present? Yes, but a fault there would de-energise the relay, and I have already proved that the relay remains energised... Also, the side stand switch is part of the interlock circuit which would cut power to the starter motor, and I still have power to the starter. It has to be either the ignition circuit power after the interlock circuit, or the ECU itself..  |
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Jul 26, 2019 9:52:19 GMT
Progress!
Now I know that the ignition circuit is in fact staying live at all components.
However, the ignition circuit itself does not go directly to the ECU, instead there is a type of "piggyback" parallel circuit which gives the ignition live signal to the ECU.
I now know that either this parallel circuit is losing power and causing the ECU to lose its ignition live signal, or the signal is being received but not being recognised by the ECU...
I have now wired up my voltmeter to this ECU signal circuit to test if this dies or not...
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Jul 31, 2019 15:08:12 GMT
After many tests of many wires feeding the ECU with power and signals, all of which showed that there was no wiring fault, I yesterday discovered that the ECU itself has a dodgy contact from the block connector, presumably to the PCB.
With the ECU in my hand, just after the fault appears (ECU quite hot to touch) I can get the ECU to go live / die by pressing on the pin socket area where the loom plugs in...
I've just ordered a used ECU from Ebay... hope it's a good one!
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Post by Droog on Aug 1, 2019 5:56:53 GMT
I'd rather rebuild an engine than trace a mysterious electrical fault. Well done mate.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Aug 1, 2019 6:29:52 GMT
I'd rather rebuild an engine than trace a mysterious electrical fault. Well done mate. Thanks. And me too. Mechanical faults are always there to be traced and seen. I'm sure you can imagine the number of times over the last weeks that I have been by the roadside in full riding gear, 40ºC ambient temperature and blazing sun wishing to God / Allah / Buddha / Ian Dury that the fault would just appear and stay there so I could trace it at home in the shade with shorts and T-shirt on!!! |
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Post by neilf on Aug 1, 2019 11:18:15 GMT
I hate intermittent faults. One of our pneumatic leak test machines is responding as it should; you can run 20 products through it without a problem, but the 21st causes the program to lock. The next time, you can run 2 through it and then it locks.... it's driving our production department mad.
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Post by philthewindsurfer on Aug 2, 2019 10:34:00 GMT
I'll believe it when its running ok  Well done though, I would have taken it to the dealers a long time ago. |
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Post by neilf on Mar 9, 2020 11:19:28 GMT
Grrrr... My K5 has now developed an FI fault of it's own. The FI warning LED isn't on when ignition key is turned on or when the engine has been started. I only notice that the light appear after the engine had been running for a minute or so. I'll give this a bash on the weekend I came across this thread on a Suzuki forum from 2010 for diagnosing FI warning light codes; www.suzuki-forums.net/index.php?/topic/9230-fi-codes-and-dealer-mode/I'm not sure it covers K5 750s, but I'll give this a bash on the weekend. |
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Mar 9, 2020 14:15:22 GMT
Grrrr... My K5 has now developed an FI fault of it's own. The FI warning LED isn't on when ignition key is turned on or when the engine has been started. I only notice that the light appear after the engine had been running for a minute or so. I'll give this a bash on the weekend I came across this thread on a Suzuki forum from 2010 for diagnosing FI warning light codes; www.suzuki-forums.net/index.php?/topic/9230-fi-codes-and-dealer-mode/I'm not sure it covers K5 750s, but I'll give this a bash on the weekend. Yes, that works for yours Neil. It's virtually impossible to get it wrong because not all of the holes in the connector block have connectors and the two you need to bridge are the only two which are next to each other (see 4th Photo on that post). Fancy a bet that it will show a C28 code? |
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Post by neilf on Mar 9, 2020 15:18:16 GMT
I'm hoping that it's a sensor connectors... I have plenty of contact cleaner and wire wool.
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Mar 9, 2020 17:06:08 GMT
I'm hoping that it's a sensor connectors... I have plenty of contact cleaner and wire wool. I hope so too, for your sake. But if it is C28, don't shell out any cash on repairs just yet (Suzuki will want 900 quid just for the parts), and don't buy any snake-oil filled electronic boxes which plug in to trick the ECU into thinking all is OK. The repair is actually quite simple, albeit fiddly. The first time I did it, it lasted a few weeks, then I realised where I had "skimped" too much and did it again and that was years ago, and it's been fine since. |
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Post by neilf on Mar 16, 2020 13:35:49 GMT
Grrrr... My K5 has now developed an FI fault of it's own. The FI warning LED isn't on when ignition key is turned on or when the engine has been started. I only notice that the light appear after the engine had been running for a minute or so. I'll give this a bash on the weekend I came across this thread on a Suzuki forum from 2010 for diagnosing FI warning light codes; www.suzuki-forums.net/index.php?/topic/9230-fi-codes-and-dealer-mode/I'm not sure it covers K5 750s, but I'll give this a bash on the weekend. Yes, that works for yours Neil. It's virtually impossible to get it wrong because not all of the holes in the connector block have connectors and the two you need to bridge are the only two which are next to each other (see 4th Photo on that post). Fancy a bet that it will show a C28 code? You weren't wring Clipper; my bike produced a C28 and a C41 fault code: C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM I'll check the state of the contacts this weekend. |
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Mar 16, 2020 15:51:34 GMT
Well, the other way of looking at it is that I was only half right!
My next bet is that the C41 is a secondary code thrown only because of the STVA fault.
Careful with the connectors down by the STVA. It's really tempting to get a screwdriver in there to depress the tab which allows you to disconnect them, but scratching the frame is virtually guaranteed!
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Post by Diego the toe clipper on Mar 31, 2020 17:03:41 GMT
Yes, that works for yours Neil. It's virtually impossible to get it wrong because not all of the holes in the connector block have connectors and the two you need to bridge are the only two which are next to each other (see 4th Photo on that post). Fancy a bet that it will show a C28 code? You weren't wring Clipper; my bike produced a C28 and a C41 fault code: C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM I'll check the state of the contacts this weekend. Did you sort this out Neil? |
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Post by neilf on Apr 1, 2020 14:17:16 GMT
For one reason and another, I haven't have time over the last couple of weekends. However, now that I've been furloughed for the whole of April, I got plenty of time to kill so it's at the top of my list of things to do.
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